Live Lille I tell you my last day in Bishkek, that of marriage. Attention that might not be long ...
Most of the Kyrgyz are Muslim and all are shamans, daily life is punctuated by traditional rites and ceremonies even more, we are not used, so we wanted to follow the couple all day . It was hot!
At 11h15 we visit the apartment of the groom's family: the family already was busy getting dressed for some decorate cars for others, and guests poured in from all sides. It was the real crowd in this small apartment, no one knew where to go.
We started around 11:45 by what is believed to be the ceremony at the mosque and then not, in fact it was a visit to an apartment of the bride's family where both spouses were already installed at the end a table. When I walked in I said the first two people I saw: "Francia!" since they were asking who this nénette who came home and they then turned inwards swarmed the apartment where about twenty people and shouted "Francia! Francia!" and let us go so we can drag us deep into the apartment, even as close as the two married, everyone seemed to expect, at least they looked happy to see us even if we do know them.
Once the viewer enters the room, the couple stood, champagne (chaud!) was served and then distributed to support the sister of the bride and her mother, both very moved, successively a toast (there used to drink as soon as someone has toast). Then a woman appears to be the grandmother said a prayer, it was moving. The glasses were drunk as dry and presto! it again: a man of the family had ordered the elevator to avoid grandmother back down the 3 floors and everybody rushed down the stairs to position themselves on the steps of the building and wait for the bride and groom . At this point we still thought to have attended the ceremony at the mosque (there is many mosques in basements of buildings here!) But no, it was not 13h and we go there only. The procession of honking cars decorated in dark in the streets of Bishkek to reach the mosque on time.
It includes the groom's parents (those of married we were not followed): at the entrance of the mosque's mother files a white veil on her head and shoulders of his future daughter-in-all Women make scarves or at least cover their shoulders, except that my aunt and I had nothing planned! There has still been allowed to attend the ceremony.
During the ceremony a cell phone rings, then 2 ... of the imam! Like what, traditions mingle with new technologies easily! It was cool to be there the heart traditions, yet atheist and anticlerical, I'm glad I attended a Muslim wedding, I had never done, and then as I do not understand anything I liked the songs of the imam!
In a run you get up, we re-runs to re-darken cars honking their horns to a public garden where we stop near a monument to the dead seems to me there. It may take about 3 or 4 families who have had the same idea: the cars are all stuck together, no longer knows who is part of "our" family or not - we must say that it should not be many nice sites come and take photos in Bishkek, and then it seems to be tradition for everyone to go through it. It must also be said that is the last Saturday before the start of Ramadan and we will perceiving throughout the day that many families in Bishkek wanted to marry their children that day! So we
pours champagne (still hot ...) and it is silent to listen grandmother read the card she had prepared for married and is moved, she has always dreamed of visiting this part of the world and it was unexpected for her to do at age 88. I'm excited to see it moved ...
Then we let go the couple accompanied by their photographer and cameraman for a private photo shoot near the fountains of the park. Meanwhile and until about 15h we will wait in a cafe where we take a small snack, we met twenty but we do not mix too: friends of the couple begin to get drunk on vodka, cousins come together and we share our impressions from the French.
Here we go again, towards the palace of marriages where one hallucinates! Already on the road we meet 4 or 5 limousines and 4x4 limousines even rented for weddings, the streets of Bishkek are literally swept processions; before the palace of weddings there there is more room for parking: 3 limousine, a half-dozen beautiful Mercedes dressed (all cars have married two alliances on their roof). In the palace is insane, at least two hundred people are gathered, the different families of married, the couple prepared to climb the stairs waiting on the sides (right men, women left). One has the impression that it is a mess but everything is orchestrated: when they get married are separated and the look in their control room they are preparing for the shoot bottom of steps and photographer for the pickups when he finished with the previous ones. They sit bottom of the stairs with their families for pictures then they are called in microphone: they are positioned, traditional music sounds (ta.. Tatata) and the family has the balconies upstairs applauds, screams, whistles encourage them. I even saw a bride cry herself by entering and exiting from the room had been given on oath. Then the whole family follows in the room. Unlike in our family invited to the marriage does not necessarily follow all these ceremonies, the largest in Kyrgyzstan is party night.
After a "fast" (in quotes because in Kyrgyzstan everything takes time!) switching to another war memorial to take pictures "among young people" (I'm the only French top, nice!) we finally went to the restaurant where we had appointment at 17.20 (do not ask me why "20"!).
Everyone must be installed before the spectacular married, you must install the 160 guests, although it takes 1 hour! The tables are already full, filled with dishes prepared by women on the eve of the groom's family (here is the family of the groom who arranges the marriage): we can not even put an elbow on the table so there a, and only the entrance!
The newlyweds come accompanied by musicians and music passed to the PA at least 150,000 db is too much! There is no agreement about is a little tiring ...
The evening is orchestrated by a presenter who called in turn the different families that all have come to the microphone to say a word to the married. Each time the bride and groom must stand as far to say they did not have much to eat. After each toast music is rejected and those present at the microphone began to dance from the bride and groom kiss at their table.
Between each toast or almost was entitled to small events: the golden voice of Kyrgyzstan, the dancers world champions ... all are very talented side and despite the "kitsch" of the thing is impressive. The presenter himself pushes chantonnette at times, and his colleague.
It was also entitled to the auctioning of a bottle of cognac in 1989 provided by his grandmother married when he was little ... Bids were long lasting and is a French eventually win it! He impressed everyone by saying he would call the auction the day of the wedding of his daughter 5 months!
Finally there was all set to dance while the dishes are succeeding on the tables, seems to have brought honor to our guests dancing to their music, trying to imitate them in their oriental dances, and then I had to dance with a gentleman who had led several women came to me kiss, thank me with this man, and I am happy to have danced! It was touching to see strong and how they were honored to have seen me dancing with one of them while I felt equally "liable" to be welcomed as a member of the family. The happiness was mutual and I would have wanted to tell them how I was touched so much attention during the day but also throughout the stay.
The evening did not end later, the restaurant was to be delivered at midnight and again all women were working to take down the decorations, empty tables of leftovers, though guests were charged to take with them, "it brings happiness to the newlyweds!"
We had to leave after this long day Kyrgyzstan but strong, invited next year for the wedding of one in Uzbekistan to visit others.
Despite the language barrier we were super easy and we understand the words were not necessary to say that we appreciated that and was delighted to meet, although sometimes communication was somewhat limited. Only positive for this trip, youpiiiii!
Roll on next year!
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